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Did you know a White’s tree frog can live up to 23 years under proper care?
The gentle and laid-back White’s Tree Frog is a popular pet that doesn’t need much space, is generally easy to care for, and is an excellent companion for all ages.
Read on to learn about this unique amphibian and some advice to give your pet a happy, comfortable life!
White’s Tree Frog’s Natural Habitat
The white’s tree frog is an amphibian native to regions throughout Australia and southern New Guinea. As their name states, they reside most often in trees.
While they prefer wet climates like rainforests, they can also live in drier areas. Wet and humid climates are best because tree frogs breathe by absorbing oxygen through the moisture on their skin. Without adequate moisture, they could suffocate.
That being said, they aren’t great swimmers, so to find water, they look in cup-shaped leaves and tree crevices that have collected rainwater.
Their bodies are adaptable so you can still find them in drier suburban areas. To stay alive, their bodies emit a slimy substance called caerviein, which acts like a moist cacoon to fight against dehydration.
Temperament and Behavior
White’s tree frogs are arboreal and nocturnal, so they’ll rest on tree branches or inside trunk crevices during the day, then venture to the ground during the evening. Hiding during the day helps them avoid predators like snakes, lizards, birds, fish, dogs, and cats.
If threatened, a white’s tree frog will let out an ear-piercing scream. They don’t have many defense mechanisms, but their loud screech is a good deterrent for many predators.
They’re very docile frogs that, unless searching for a mate, like to keep to themselves. They’re not poisonous, either.
In fact, substances extracted from their skin have medical uses for humans. It’s been used to fight bacteria, lower blood pressure, and treat cold sores.
Requirements for a White’s Tree Frog Enclosure
Enclosure Size
White’s tree frogs can grow to around 2 to 4 inches from snout to vent. They may be small, but they’re arboreal, so you must provide space to roam and climb.
An adult White’s Tree frog lives very comfortably in our Model 111 enclosure (20-gallon volume). If you plan to house multiple White’s Tree frogs, consider a larger enclosure, like the Model 215 (30-gallon volume).
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Model 111 Cage$259.00 -
Model 215 Cage$299.00
Temperature
A white’s tree frog’s natural habitat is generally hot and humid, so your enclosure should emulate that.
Create a temperature gradient with a general air temperature throughout the cage and a hotter side for basking purposes.
- General Air Temperature: 74°-76°
- Basking Spot Temperature: 82°-84°
- Nighttime Temperature: 65°-72°
To achieve an ambient nighttime temperature, turn off the overhead heat sources and use an under-the-tank heater.
Our cages have built-in ventilation and you can easily install, regulate, and monitor heat in the cage with a 1000-watt thermostat and probe.
Humidity
Your cage should maintain a humidity level between 70%-90%. As we mentioned, these frogs require a lot of moisture in their surroundings to survive so it’s important to monitor these levels for a healthy environment.
Noticing the humidity drop below 70%? Increase it by misting in the enclosure with a spray bottle twice daily (once in the morning and once in the evening). We also offer automatic misters to make this task hassle-free.
Substrate and Bedding
They spend most of their time in trees, but the substrate is still important. As your frog ages, it’ll likely be lazier and spend more time on the ground. But more importantly, substrates play a significant role in maintaining the humidity and temperature.
For example, we offer a mold-resistant bark-based substrate designed for humidity-loving animals. A major benefit is that it retains moisture and slowly releases it into the environment.
You can use common household items like paper towels or newspapers because they absorb moisture, are easy to replace, and are very cheap. However, paper doesn’t always look the best and you’ll have to clean and replace them more often. So it’s not the preferred substrate, but it is the most cost-effective.
Accessories
Accessories will be necessary to recreate your frog’s natural habitat. Include some tree branches and elevated surfaces for climbing on and burrowing under. A white’s tree frog will not feel at home if it can’t climb.
For the ground level, include at least one form of a hide. In nature, they like to lie in hollow logs or tree trunks, so look for a hide that reflects this.
Water features are also recommended. Water features and misters hydrate your pet’s skin, while also contributing to the humidity. We also have a large selection of water bowls to help reach the optimal moisture.
Get a Custom Vision Cage
We offer many standard sizes, but every enclosure is built to suit.
Feeding Your White’s Tree Frog
Preferred Food
These tree frogs are primarily insectivores, feeding on crickets, worms, roaches, and grasshoppers. Bigger white’s tree frogs will sometimes consume small mammals and other reptiles. They’re not very picky eaters, so they’ll eat almost anything they can get their pads on.
To attack their prey, they will either extend their sticky tongue and pull it in, or use their front feet to grab prey and scoop it into their mouth.
Because of their thick and sticky saliva, it’s hard for them to swallow. To assist with this process, they can push their eyes down to add pressure in their mouths, which forces the food down their throat.
How to Feed a White’s Tree Frog
White’s tree frogs prefer a diverse diet of insects, with gut-loaded crickets as the top choice. To provide a well-balanced diet of proteins, lipids, and carbs, you can also feed cockroaches, grasshoppers, silkworms, and other worms for occasional treats.
Feed an adult frog 3-4 large insects (mostly crickets) 2-3 times a week. For juveniles, you can feed them daily, but in smaller quantities. Don’t overfeed your frog because obesity is a common problem with pet white’s tree frogs.
You can feed baby rodents to your white’s tree frog for an infrequent treat, but it’s not necessary for their diet. If you are to feed small mammals to your frog, we recommend that they’re pre-dead and thawed. Live prey can fight your frog and cause serious injury or death.